Friday 18 September 2015

Someting Different: Mavrodaphne Wine

Greetings, fellow guzzlers!

This week, I want to try something a little different - literally. On the Something Different part of my blog, I want to highlight unusual or niche food products. I will tend to pick items which are not too far off mainstream, so that everyone should have a pretty easy job of finding the item I highlight, but strange enough that hopefully you can make the odd real discovery.

My first product is Mavrodaphne wine. Wine may not be the first thing one thinks of with Greece, especially when such excellent products as Greek olives and feta have to be considered, but then again Mavrodaphne is not a typical wine.

The exact bottle I am choosing for this feature is Kourtaki's Mavrodaphne of Patras Cameo which I bought in Waitrose for £6.69.

Classified as a fortified dessert wine, Mavrodaphne (according to Fringe Wine1) mostly hails from the north of the Peloponnese in the area around the city of Patras.

As a brand and process, Mavrodaphne wine was established by the Bavarian Gustav Clauss in the second half of the nineteenth century. He used Port production techniques to produce a dessert wine rather than the over-sweet table wines then made with the grape.

Upon pouring, the wine is like deep red velvet - crimson in hue and slightly opaque. Held up to the light, the liquid shines but in a far more gently, diffuse way than the sharp, clear manner of normal table reds.

On the nose, the wine is sweet and fruity, bringing to mind rich dried fruits such as dates and (perhaps not surprisingly) raisins.

This theme very much transfers to the flavour. It is heady and sweat, like a sultry summer evening, but with just enough sour undertones to prevent it from being sickly.

It is a delight as an aperitif and goes extremely well with chocolate. However, despite being a dessert wine, I also very much enjoyed drinking it with meat main dishes. The effect is very similar to the way Middle Eastern stews often pair meat and dried fruit and indeed I feel it is with rich stews that it pairs best.

In terms of price, my bottle at least seemed very reasonable. For £6.69 one can buy some truly indifferent wines, lacking in any number of areas from top and bottom notes to body to simply vanishing off the palate as soon as swallowed. However, the Mavrodaphne of Patras Cameo's fully rounded flavour hung around the mouth long after swallowing.

Overall, Mavrodaphne wine is a hidden treat. Sweet, rich and fruity, it is a versatile drink that can be enjoyed equally in its intended purpose as a dessert wine or aperitif or as an exciting accompaniment to a stew.


1 Fringe Wine: Mavrodaphne - Patras, Greece

Friday 11 September 2015

Book Review - The Dumpling Sisters Cookbook by Amy and Julie Zhang

Greetings, fellow guzzlers!

So, I know that I have been absent for a few weeks, days, I don't know any more but I promise it was a temporary glitch. I now have a job, and a very exciting one at that, and am moving into a new and hopefully more stable period of my life which will allow me to blog to a regular pattern.

In other news, I am teaching myself HTML and CSS and you are reading the first blog post I'm punching out all by myself in code.

Anyway, this is all very well and self-congratulatory but I have business to attend to, the tasty business of reviewing The Dumpling Sisters Cookbook!

The Dumpling Sisters Cookbook is written by, surprise, surprise The Dumplings Sisters, or Amy and Julie Zhang to be precise.

The Zhang sisters are food bloggers and vloggers with a focus on the Chinese food of their roots. While growing up in New Zealand, their parents ran a food cart it is was here that they learned to cook. After completing formidably impress Oxbridge degrees, the sisters set up their blog and here we are today with their first book.

I'm a sucker for real Chinese food so I was very excited about this book, especially as only Gok Wan's Gok Cooks Chinese had so far provided me with what I was looking for.

Fortunately, this book does not disappoint! It is stuffed with recipes, ranging from classics like Sweet and Sour Pork (wookie bellows of delight)to less familiar treats such as pork stuffed aubergines and rainbow peppers.

There is even a section on Chinese baking which, coming from a tradition of believing the Chinese don't bake, was a revelation and one I am keen to pursue - sweet and salty walnut cookies, anyone?

Another really nice touch in the book is that it provides, as a side note, the option with many of the recipes to explore a more exotic side of Chinese cookery such as dried scallops or pickled mustard greens. The great thing about this approach is that you can explore using these ingredients if you can find them or, if like me you struggle to get your hands on even Shaoxing rice wine (100 brands of soy sauce but hardly any of this vital ingredient - why, supermarkets, why?!?!?), then you can omit them without any fear of degrading the recipe.

However, before floating off on a cloud of praise, I had serious recipe testing to do and so I picked out three recipes to try.

  • Eggy Fried Rice
  • Lacquered Honey Hoisin Pork Spare Ribs
  • Spring Onion Pancakes

The Eggy Fried Rice (egg fried rice) was very nice indeed. The flavourings were unusual, inasmuch as they were very delicate and almost aromatic. Very little soy was used and the addition of fresh ginger root made the fried rice different than any I have tasted before

How the rice was cooked was also different than the method I was accustomed to. Previously, I would scramble all the egg before setting it aside to add back in once the rice was cooked. However, the Dumpling Sisters cook half the egg in this way but add the other half during the cooking of the rice. The great advantage of this method is that the rice becomes coated in eggy goodness and truly becomes egg fried rice.

Next, I tried the Lacquered Honey Hoisin Pork Spare Ribs with a little less success. There was nothing wrong with the method, it produced beautifully cooked ribs made with enormous love and attention. Nor was the sauce at fault directly. It was a lovely tasting sauce, sweet with just enough savoury to enhance the pork. For me, however, there simply was not enough of it. Half dribbled off the ribs and stuck to the pan and I was left wishing for a bit more flavour. Perhaps I missed the point and sticky ribs were really not the idea but I think in future I will double up on the quantity of sauce to create a true meaty nirvana!

Finally, I came to the Spring Onion Pancakes. I struggle to find words to describe these delights. Intensely savoury but not in a drying, salty way, the pancakes had a complex layer structure which fell apart on eating. They are an absolute perfect accompaniment to soup and were, for me, the star recipe I tried.

Turning away from the food, the presentation of the book is stunning. The recipes are well spaced out for easy reading and the vast majority of the recipes are accompany by beautiful photographs. All through the book are evocative, Chinese-style illustrations which look like these where made by a brush and the tone the Dumpling Sisters take in their prose is friendly and conversational.

The Dumpling Sisters Cookbook is a terrific guide to all that authentic Chinese food has to offer. The recipes often have quite a delicate flavour, on occasion maybe a shade too delicate, but this is still a great book well worth having in the collection.

Overall * * * * * - An extremely thorough examination of Chinese cooking from a pair of sisters who really know what they are talking about.

Presentation * * * * * - Absolutely stunning visual presentation combines with friendly prose to produce a delightful cookbook.

Quality of Information * * * * - Generally fantastic. The sisters take the trouble to explain what they are doing and or what ingredients they are using. However, it might be argued that one or two recipes could do with a little more flavour.

Range of Information * * * * * - Simply comprehensive. Everything from snacks to feasts, meat dishes to deserts is covered.

Price * * * * * - For £20, this is a well priced book.

Will I Take This Off The Shelf For Reference? - Yes.


I have been reviewing The Dumpling Sisters Cookbook by Amy and Julie Zhang, published by Weidenfeld and Nicolson (2015), ISBN-13: 978-0297609063